Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.
This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family completely surprised.
“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent quality.
It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.
The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.
“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.
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